Itinerary: 6 Days in Rome and Napoli

I just got a lovely Facebook message from an old high school friend asking for advice planning her itinerary to Rome and Napoli for 3 days each this summer. Naturally I got immensely excited and decided to write out a whole list of my favorite things- then I thought why not just make a whole itinerary for fun (this is my life) and if I'm doing that why not share it with everyone. So without further ado, here is my itinerary for Rome and Napoli.

Napoli, Day 1
Exploring Town and Sea

1. Exploring the old town and university district

Head up to the windy streets of the historic center and walk around exploring shops full of curiosities and cool souvenirs. It must be said that Napoli is famous for it's incredible coffee, so stop at any cafe for an espresso and a pastry. While you're in the center grab a scoop from Napoli's most famous gelateria, Gay Odin - you won't have room for it after dinner.When you're ready for lunch, I recommend heading down to the Lungomare, which is the promenade along the water.

2. The most authentic lunch money can buy

Walk towards the west, away from Vesuvius, and you will come upon a little indoor market on Via F. Galiani. There in the back corner is a tiny little trattoria Dalla Nonna, or as the locals call it Cibi Cotti. Go sit down in the one hectic room and tell the waiter (hopefully you get Massimo) to bring you whatever he wants. They make new dishes every day, and they're all delicious. When we went, we got a huge plate of three kinds of pasta and basically half a chicken each with roasted rosemary potatoes. With fresh bread and a large bottle of sparkling water the grand total was... €15. Yeah.

3. Pastries and a castle sunset

After a nice late lunch, walk back along the Lungomare towards the castle on the water. Before you get there, take a little detour back up a few streets to the most famous pasticceria in Napoli: Pasticceria Moccia on Via San Pasquale. Grab a mini assortment- I recommend the sfogliatelle and the baba al rhum, both typical of Napoli, as well as the zeppole di San Giuseppe. If you like, take your goodies back down to the shore and eat them on the large rocks or in one of the little parks lining the way.

As the sun starts to set- and this might be later for you (I was there in November) I recommend heading to the Castel dell'Ovo to enjoy the view.

4. Aperitivo 

An Italian tradition is having a drink and some light snacks at a bar before dinner. The most popular drink to order is an Aperol spritz, which is like a yummy alcoholic orange soda. There could be some tiny salatini or a whole buffet of finger foods depending on where you go. I've heard that S'move and Nabilah (white couches right on the sand) are nice on the water, and Piazza Bellini is a good area in the old town. If you're still full from lunch and pastries, either satisfy yourself with a decent aperitivo spread, or grab a quick panini.

Napoli, Day 2
Art and Religion (plus pizza and donuts)

1. The Duomo

The Napoli cathedral dates from the 4th century. It's neo-Gothic exterior is a bit lacking, and does not prepare you for the splendor of the interior. Look up to admire the coffered gold ceiling, and be sure to check out the baptistry and the early Christian mosaics in the archeological area beneath it.

2. The Catacombs

Carved into the Capodimonte hillside, the catacombs used to serve as Roman cisterns for water. Go exploring the labyrinthine depths of the Catacombe di San Gaudioso and the Santa Maria della Sanità. The Cimitero delle Fontanelle is also famous for it's massive collection of over 40,000 skulls.

3. Pio Monte and Caravaggio

I am a massive fan of Caravaggio, so one of my necessary stops was the church of Pio Monte della Misericordia to see his famous Seven Acts of Mercy altarpiece. Upstairs from the small church is a little art museum included in the admission- the view of the altar from the museum's gallery is quite nice.

4. Stop for a graffa

Before heading up to Capodimonte, walk back along via Tribunali to Voglia di Graffe, where they will make you a personal donut right in front of you. Frying them one at a time, dipping them in sugar, and then, if desired, pumping it full of warm Nutella. I wrote a poem about mine.

5. Museo di Capodimonte

For an afternoon excursion, head up to the Museo and gardens of Capodimonte. The museum is home of one of Italy's largest and artistically rich collections and the surrounding gardens are lovely. Housed inside a massive three-story palazzo, the Farnese collection contains masterpieces by Italian artists such as Titian, Bellini, Masaccio and Raphael. There is also a Marcello Venusti copy of Michelangelo's Last Judgment before it was censored (loincloths). I would also be sure to see the famous female renaissance artist Artemisia Gentileschi's Judith Beheading Holofernes.

6. PIZZA

The main event. I was in Napoli for Thanksgiving and split three massive pizzas with my friend to celebrate the holiday. My passionate recommendation is the world famous Pizzeria Sorbillo on via Tribunali, 32. It was life-changing. Be sure to order at least one pizza per person. Da Michele is another popular option, from the book/movie Eat, Pray, Love.

Napoli, Day 3
Pompeii and Amalfi

I must admit that I didn't actually make it to Pompeii when I went- it is an excursion highly counseled against if there is rain or blistering sun, as the historic site has barely any cover. There was a heavy downpour of freezing rain during our November visit so we decided to save it for next time. That being said, I deeply regret not going and I've heard only wonderful things. You can catch a train directly there from the central train station, and if you like, continue on that train to explore some of the towns along the Amalfi coast. I very much enjoyed Positano.

Napoli notes:

- If you're interested in a night out dancing, check out Galleria 19 on via S. Sebastiano
- For drinks or an aperitivo, head to an outdoor bar or cafe on the leafy green Piazza Bellini
- I've never been, but for famous coffee the critic's choices are Gran Caffè Aragonese and Intramoenia Caffè Letterario. At Caffè Amadeus you can get any message you like inscribed into your cappuccino foam.
- Feel free to check out my other post, "10 Things To Do in Napoli and Amalfi" although it's mostly repeats. 

Rome, Day 1
The Centro

1. Piazza del Campidoglio

Start off a whirlwind day of touring in the Piazza del Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo and overlooking the the city on one side and the Roman Forum on the other. It rests on Capitoline Hill, the ancient spiritual heart of Rome, and it contains the famous bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius.

2. Imperial Forums

Head east on the Via dei Fori Imperiali and you will pass Trajan's Column, then continue on past the Forum of Julius Caesar, the Forum of Augustus, the Forums of Nerva and Vespasian, and finally the Temple of Venus and Roma. You will then arrive at the entrance to the Colosseum. 

3. Colosseum

Construction of this famous amphitheater started in 72 A.D. It could hold up to 80,000 spectators of gladiator battles, shows, mock fights, exotic animal hunting etc. In later years it was also used as a sanctuary from barbarians.

4. Roman Forum

Exit the Colosseum and walk past the Arch of Constantine to the Roman Forum, the historic center of ancient Rome. If you have time after the forum, you can also ascend Palatine Hill. 

5. The Pantheon

If you're tired of walking at this point, you can take the metro to Barberini or grab a bus. The Pantheon was begun in 27 A.D. and then built and rebuilt over the centuries, astonishingly remaining intact through the years and finally being converted to a Christian church.

6. The Spanish Steps

For tired feet take the metro to Spagna, otherwise walk over to the famous steps to enjoy the crowds and the flowers. If you feel like climbing them the church is lovely at the top. Otherwise feel free to window shop (or actually shop) around the lovely designer shops at the base.

8. The Trevi Fountain (Fontana dei Trevi)

You may go there wishing for a Paolo to tap you on the shoulder Lizzie McGuire-style, but the fountain itself is worth the trip. Throw in a coin and enjoy the aqua waters and lovely evening lighting.

7. Piazza Navona

This gorgeous piazza is, in my opinion, the most beautiful in Rome. It's gem is Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers and the piazza is filled with street performers and musicians.

9. Dinner at Trattoria Gino e Pietro

Right near Navona is my favorite restaurant in Rome, Trattoria Gino e Pietro on Via del Governo Vecchio. While there's no guarantee it's the best, stumbling upon this little place with it's sweet and welcoming owners was a wonderful experience. I highly recommend their spaghetti carbonara, a specialty of Rome and very well done here. After dinner try some limoncello, amaro, or grappa.

Rome, Day 2
The Vatican

1. The Vatican Museums 

Walk to the right of the Basilica (that will come later) up up up around the brick wall surrounding the Vatican Museums until you reach the entrance. You can reserve tickets online beforehand, which might be a good idea depending on how crowded it gets. When you enter, be sure to catch the Cortile Ottagono for Apollo Belvedere and Laocoön and his Sons. The Galleria delle Carte Geografiche is very cool, lined with gorgeous maps of ancient Italy, and the Pinacoteca has a spectacular collection of masterpieces. Upstairs the Stanze di Raffaello hold many works including the School of Athens fresco. Finally, head to the Sistine Chapel, only accessible through the museum. Don't try to take any photos in there.

2. The Basilica

When you exit the museums from the Sistine Chapel, you will descend a couple long flights of stairs to the very entrance of St. Peter's Basilica (look, you just bypassed the longest line in the world. Bravo. Genius). Be sure to check out Michelangelo's Pieta and Bernini's colossal baldacchino and throne of St. Peter. Apparently you can also ascend to the dome of the basilica for an amazing view.

3. Castel Sant'Angelo 

If you still have the time/energy, walk further down the river to the Castel Sant'Angelo, or the Mausoleum of Hadrian. You can tour the Pope's apartments and enjoy a panoramic view of the city.

4. Trastevere

After a nice rest at your hotel, go have dinner and/or check out the nightlife scene in Trastevere. The neighborhood is famous for hip bars and music and the Romans call it the most "authentic" area of the city.

Rome, Day 3
The Borghese and the Churches

1. The Borghese Gallery and Gardens

The Borghese Gallery is my favorite place in Rome. It is an absolutely breathtaking collection of art and sculpture in a white palazzo nestled in the lush giardini. Cardinal Scipione Borghese was a great collector of 16th and 17th century art, and patron to both Bernini and Caravaggio (my two favorite artists). Be sure to admire Bernini's three incredible marble sculptures there- Apollo and Daphne, David, and the Rape of Proserpina. I wrote a slightly offensive post about them here.   

2. Piazza del Popolo and Santa Maria del Popolo

Descending from the gardens you'll arrive at the massive Piazza del Popolo. Right off of it is the lovely church of Santa Maria del Popolo (with some works by Caravaggio, because let's be real, my goal for Rome is always to see as much Caravaggio as possible)

3. Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri

All the way across the city on Piazza della Repubblica is the Michelangelo-designed Santa Maria degli Angeli. It doesn't look like much from the outside, carved into the red brick of the baths of Caracalla, but just inside the door the space balloons into a monumental cross.

4. Santa Maria della Vittoria

For a nice contrast to the vastness of S. Maria degli Angeli, check out S. Maria della Vittoria, a tiny jewelbox church where every single inch is gilded, painted, or covered in stucco angels. To the right of the altar is Bernini's Ecstasy of St. Teresa. 

Notes for Rome
- For the best coffee you'll ever taste, head to Caffè Sant'Eustachio right near Piazza Navona. Apparently they use the water from a 19 B.C. Roman aqueduct
- Campo dei Fiori has a famous outdoor market and is also quite close to Piazza Navona. If you're hungry in the area, my favorite panino shop is right off it on Via dei Baullari. I had at least one every day I was in Rome.
- For food, to get the full Roman experience you must try spaghetti carbonara, artichokes (carciofi either alla giudia or alla romana) and bucatini all'amatriciana. The pizza is also delicious, but after Napoli I'd recommend using your limited time in more pasta-oriented directions.

Let me know about any other can't miss destinations and enjoy your trip!