The Daytrippers: Ferrara and Parma

My mom has been visiting me for the past two weeks! In fact she just returned to the states this morning. I've been looking forward to her visit all year, mostly because she was the one who first introduced me to this incredible country when we took a trip here together the summer after my senior year of high school. Having her here was like rediscovering Italy all over again, because after months of living here and having a routine, it was great to see everything with fresh eyes and excitement! For the first week she stayed in a beautiful Airbnb apartment on the main street in the centro and we took a couple of day trips on my days off from school.

Ferrara was our first stop, we went on a sunny Sunday, taking a quick thirty minute train over to the gorgeous Renaissance-influenced town of bikes and greenery.

We strolled through the cobblestone streets, stopping in parks where adorable little kids were playing and admiring the flower covered trees in the courtyards of the churches and palazzos.

I'd forgotten to make a lunch reservation at the incredible (and ridiculously popular) Trattoria da Noemi, so we stopped by to put our name in, and then killed an hour trying tiny bite-size pastries at a cafe down the street and exploring the main square.

Lunch was delicious. If you're in Ferrara don't miss Trattoria da Noemi (via Ragno, 31). It serves all the typical Ferrarese foods with style and cozy elegance. We started with fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with melted mozzarella cheese. I had the local specialty of pasticcio di maccheroni, which is a pie with sweet crust filled with cheesy pasta, ragu, and truffles. It was life-changing. My mom had a wheel of melted Piedmont cheese and grilled vegetables. Paired with a Sangiovese wine and some sparkling water, and we kicked off our foodie vacation in style.  

My favorite thing in Ferrara is the imposing but elegant Castello Estense in the center of town, historical seat of the powerful Este family. It is surrounded by a large moat and and assortment of outdoor markets, shops, and piazzas.

The duomo was surprisingly impressive. My guidebook compared it to a massive Mississippi steamboat, oversized and gaudy, but when I went inside I actually loved the massive scale, the muted gold and grey decorations, and the low-hanging crystal chandeliers.

We walked back to the train station as the sun was setting, happy and full. I loved Ferrara, and definitely recommend it for a quick day trip! Next time I want to rent a bike and explore the garden-filled outskirts. 

Best travel companion ever.

Fast-forward to Thursday and we were on the train to Parma, one of the foodie capitals- birthplace of both parmesan cheese and prosciutto di Parma! Also the home of the incomparable Giuseppe Verdi, whose quote "You may have the universe, if I may have Italy" has been my mantra all year. The morning was a little overcast, but that changed wonderfully in the afternoon!

We passed by the duomo first, but it was closed so we admired that pink and white marble and promised to come back later.

Parma is ten times prettier in the sun! There's large piazzas, a little river, great shopping, and colorful little houses.

For lunch we headed to the Trattoria Corrieri (via Conservatorio, 1), and it was wonderful. Unfortunately my camera sputtered and died just as we were sitting down, so I don't have many pictures of the delicious food, but maybe it's better this way- you'll have to go and try it for yourself. Our waiter Massimo was quite the jokester, and very sweet. He helped me pick out the best typical dish- a mix of their three most famous kinds of tortelli, which are like super-stuffed ravioli. I had tortelli di Erbette (ricotta and herb), tortelli di zucca (sweet pumpkin with a hint of orange peels), and tortelli di patate e prosciutto (buttery mashed potatoes and pieces of Parma's famous prosciutto). My mom had the best eggplant parmesan we've ever tasted.

If you have room, I recommend starting with a large order of torta fritta (warm, puffy fried dough pockets) with a plate of cheeses and meats. If you're feeling adventurous, try the specialty of pesto di cavallo- raw minced horse meat with herbs and Parmesan. I chickened out.

After lunch we returned to the duomo, which looks quite unimpressive from the outside. Maybe the most boring facade I've ever seen actually. But when we walked inside we lost our breath. It was the most incredibly beautiful church I've ever seen (and that's after exploring St. Peter's in Rome last weekend). All of the arched ceilings and gilded walls are covered in beautiful frescoes, the dome has Correggio's famous Assunzione della Vergine, and the chapels lining the nave are each more original and more beautiful than the last.

If you're in Parma, don't miss this. I want to go back and do it justice with my big camera- these are all just iPhone snaps!

Finally we stopped by Pasticceria Torino (Strada Giuseppe Garibaldi, 61) to pick up some goodies on our way to the ducal gardens. We sat on a bench munching on chocolate cream, sweet strawberries, and butter pastry dough until the sun started to set and we headed back to the station and Bologna. 

I loved both cities, and can't recommend visiting enough! I am actually planning on going back to Parma to visit the famous art museum, see the duomo again, and tour a Parmesan factory in a couple of weeks- stay tuned.